An overnight success!

In late January I travelled by Eurostar to Paris and then from Paris to Bourg-Saint-Maurice on the Travelski Night Express Sleeper train, the new sleeper train run by French tour operator Travelski.
 
I was writing a story about it for InTheSnow magazine and for SnowCarbon – to help you evaluate this as a future travel option.
 
Initially, when Travelski launched sales for the Travelski Night Express (TNE), tickets could only be purchased as part of a Travelski package. That meant you could only stay at accommodation offered by Travelski. But in December, Travelski changed that, selling a ticket-only option too, which means you can stay wherever you wish.

The TNE departs from Paris every Friday just before 11pm and returns overnight the following Saturday. This creates a holiday with eight days on the slopes instead of the usual six.

Tignes' powdery slopesPhoto: Daniel Elkan

The TNE stops at Moûtiers, Aime-la-Plagne and Bourg-Saint-Maurice stations, a short transfer away from resorts like Courchevel, Méribel, Val Thorens, La Plagne, Peisey-Vallandry, Les Arcs, La Rosiere, Sainte Foy, Val d’Isère and Tignes. You can see the Travelski Express timtable here.
 
Whether you book the train as part of a train-plus-accommodation ski package from Paris, or just buy the train ticket alone, you’ll need to separately book a Eurostar from London to Paris.
 
I was curious – and a little bit sceptical - about what this overnight journey be like. This is what happened.

Friday, 16:31

London St PancrasPhoto: Daniel Elkan

Coming from London, you can take a 17:31 Eurostar and arrive at Paris in time to catch the TNE. But to give me more time in Paris, I opted for the 16:31. As I was writing an article, Eurostar provided me a complimentary press ticket and put me in Premier class on the way out. 

Eurostar Premier mealPhoto: Daniel Elkan

Lots of space and you get a nice meal with wine and bubbles, but if you are paying for the train ticket yourself, this is the priciest option.

20:00

RER from Paris Gare de Lyon to Paris Gare du NordPhoto: Daniel Elkan

Eurostar arrives at Paris Gare du Nord, of course, and the TNE departs from Paris Gare de Lyon. I made the switch of station using the RER. As per this recent blog post on SnowCarbon, the RER seems to be getting better and easier to use.

20:45

Photo: Daniel Elkan

I found a brasserie, called Les Deux Savoie, opposite Gare de Lyon and had some excellent French onion soup there. Friendly waiters and a nicely Parisian ambience.

22:25

Travelski Night ExpressPhoto: Daniel Elkan

At Gare de Lyon, on Platform L, where the TNE was leaving from, there was a definite buzz in the air.  People were wheeling their suitcases, duffels, ski and snowboard bags along the TNE platform. The atmosphere felt like people were boarding some kind of new funfair ride.

Travelski Night Express couchettePhoto: Daniel Elkan

Inside, the train has a charming, retro, feel. You can even pull down the train windows in the corridor to open them and feel the air rushing past – a treat you don’t find on modern trains.

Luggage cabinPhoto: Daniel Elkan

The couchette compartments contain six bunks which, if not all occupied, create additional space for luggage. There's a large luggage cubby hole too. Each bunk has a pillow and pristine white folded sheets and a little TNE welcome pack containing an eye mask, ear plugs and aloe-vera disposable face wipes. A few lucky compartments have a double space in the middle – ample room to swing a cat.

I headed down the train to explore to the cafe bar. The atmosphere throughout the train was friendly. People nodded, smiled and said ‘Bonjour’ I passed. There’s a definite spirit of bonhomie on board. It's mostly groups of friends and couples on board, but I saw a few families with young children too.

22:52

Travelski Night Express cafe-barPhoto: Daniel Elkan

The train left on time. The restaurant-bar is certainly impressive! Decked out with red leather seating, wood-and-formica tables and soft lighting, it resembles a 1920s speakeasy. As mentioned, I’d been sceptical as to what it would be like but was delighted with what I found.  The train is operated by company called Pegasus, a private train-rental company that aims to ‘blend the timeless charm of vintage night trains with modern technologies to create a unique experience’ – a laudable aim.

23:30

Photo: Daniel Elkan

The café bar filled up. In couples and small groups, everyone was chatting way, bringing beers (€3.50 - €5) and glasses of wine (€6.50) from the bar. The age range on board seemed to be early 20s to 60s. You could start a conversation with anyone easily, if you wanted. TNE staff are friendly and helpful too. 

I counted about 54 people in the café-bar at its peak. The music is kept at a low level making it easy to talk in groups. The ambience was great.  I interviewed some people travelling.
 
Regine, from near Paris, heading to La Plagne, told me: “When I was little there were lots of night trains. So, I think a lot of people here are really delighted to have that nostalgic feeling.”

Photo: Daniel Elkan

Brothers Guilhem and Xavier, going to Val d’Isère, said: “It’s been a while since we went by train – but this is great use of travel time and this kind of train is the type we took when we were kids. We plan to ski tomorrow morning – the black La Face run!”

Photo: Daniel Elkan

Initially, it felt like I was the only British person on the train, despite it carrying up to 600 skiers and snowboarders. But then I met Lucy and Josh from Northampton, in the café-bar.  “Some of our family is driving out to meet us in Tignes, so we are having a bit of a race – and we are going to beat them!” Lucy told me. “This is way more relaxed than the Eurostar direct overnight train. You couldn’t drink on that train, and this train has a lovely café-bar. The couchettes aren’t huge, so it’s been a bit tight with all our luggage, but that’s fine – and it’s fun!”

00:45

I had a midnight feast.  The menu had three main courses: Tartiflette au reblochon, grilled sausages with potatoes or vegetarian taboule couscous, each priced at €10.50). The tartiflette definitely wasn’t the greatest I’ve ever tasted. But it was served on a real plate with real cutlery. I didn’t sample the other items so I can’t tell you about them. You can also bring your own snacks to the café bar – the train staff are relaxed about that.  

01:40

The bar quietened down, but there were still people chatting away. I walked back along the corridor, peering out at the lights of villages sweeping past and then reached my couchette, climbed onto my bunk and fell asleep.

06:30

Photo: Daniel Elkan

Time to experience breakfast on the train. Back in the cafe-bar, I spotted a small group of people, beers in hand. Incredibly, they seemed to be standing in the exact same position as five hours earlier, when I'd left the bar.

Photo: Daniel Elkan

“Have you guys been to bed?” I asked. “Umm, no!” was the grinning reply. “We met each other here, got chatting and the conversation has been too interesting to go to sleep. But we definitely won’t ski today!” This social bonding would be unlikely to happen in an airport.

Traveski breakfastPhoto: Daniel Elkan

I enjoyed the breakfast pack, including a cappuccino (€12 in total) and sat down, peering out the huge windows as we ploughed through the dim morning light of the Tarentaise valley.

Photo: Daniel Elkan

Manon, travelling with her husband and two young girls, told me: “The girls are very excited, it’s their first time to come skiing by train. It’s such a benefit to sleep en route, and it feels like an adventure.” Our conversation was punctuated by excited exclamations from the girls whose faces were pressed against the window: “Mama! Mama! La neige!”

08:09

Bourg-Saint-MauricePhoto: Daniel Elkan

After calls at Moûtiers (07:36) and Aime-la-Plagne (07:55), we arrived at Bourg-Saint-Maurice on time at 08:09.  I’d booked a local bus transfer for the 40-minute ride from the station to Tignes-les-Brévières, where I was booked into a 21-person catered chalet called Chalet Roskso.

Chalet RoskoPhoto: Daniel Elkan

It’s run by British independent chalet company, Chalet Chardons, which has a number of catered chalets in the village. By 09:45 I was kitted out with my rental boots and board from the local Skiset shop and ready to hit the slopes.

Tignes chairliftPhoto: Daniel Elkan

I spent the next eight days exploring the 300km of slopes that Tignes shares with Val d’Isère.

The vertical range is from 1,550 metres in Les Brévières to 3,456 metres at the top of the Grande Motte cable car. Undoubtedly, the stand-out days of the week to ski here are Saturdays because that’s the ‘changeover’ day where 90% of holidaymakers are arriving at or leaving the resort.

Tignes-les-Brévières restaurantPhoto: Daniel Elkan

Tignes-les-Brévières is friendly village is comprised of beautiful wood-and-stone buildings, several welcoming restaurants and a couple of laid-back bars. It’s lower altitude than Tignes’ other villages, far less centrally connected. But it compensates with its authentic aesthetic and homely ambience.

Chalet RoskoPhoto: Daniel Elkan

The great thing about catered chalets, of which there are many in Les Brévières, is how social they are, creating a home-from-home feel. In the chalet I met father and son Andy and Alex, who by coincidence had also travelled on the TNE, too.

Photo: Daniel Elkan

At dinner on the first evening, I got chatting with Tim and Simon, who had travelled all the way by train from Cornwall – first on a sleeper train to London, then a Eurostar to Paris and then a TGV to Bourg-Saint-Maurice. We spent the week skiing together, which was an epic time.

Tim, Daniel, SimonPhoto: Daniel Elkan

Would I do the TNE again? Definitely. I loved the friendly, relaxed vibe on board. The couchettes were comfortable enough. Obviously, if you’ve slept well, the first extra Saturday on the slopes is great.

But it’s the last Saturday that feels like an amazing bonus ski day before you head back overnight to a ridiculously rainy UK.